Sterlin's Service History

Before the trip started Sterlin was checked over by Philippe our local Land Rover mechanic. Philippe had competed all of our major repairs and we certainly trust him with Sterlin. Before we set off, he wanted to have one final look over Sterlin. Nothing was found.


Land Rover has a pretty good service network throughout the world, and the plan was to tap into this network while we travelled. It is always a good idea to keep a close eye and ear on unusual sights and sounds. But any work would be done by mechanics, ideally Land Rover trained mechanics. This blog post lists the work we had done during our trip.




Thursday, October 10, 2013. 169,534 kms
Fremantle, Western Australia

This was our first planned service. We also had a small transfer case leak which had developed a week before this service. As part of the service Sterlin got new engine oil, oil filter, air filter and a little surprisingly two new brass plugs for the front and rear diffs. There were no issues found and the fluids were not even topped up. In fact the owner of the indy shop declared that our car is in "immaculate" condition. High praise indeed.

The transfer case leak was determined to be too minor to worry about. So no repair was completed and I continued to worry.


Wednesday, January 15, 2014. 169,534 kms
Chang Mai, Thailand

This was our first unplanned service. The right rear brake had developed a squeal during light braking. Probably not a safety issue but very annoying and best to have it checked out. The brake pads had some wear but were not ready for replacement. Both rear rotors had some grooves and these were quickly removed with some grinding. In America we would have got replacement rotors, but this is Thailand after all.

The mechanic also checked the transfer case for signs of leakage and the oil level. No problems found. The transfer case leak seems to have fixed itself.


Wednesday, March 28, 2014. 185,387 kms
Vientaine, Laos

This was our second planned service. A little late maybe, but we wanted to do the service immediatley prior to travelling through China where it is probably harder to do. There are no authorized service centers and we are on a bit of a schedule making it hard to stop to fix things. We also had a very good feeling about the expertise of the Land Rover garage here in Laos and did not get the same warm fuzzy feeling while in Cambodia.

The service consisted of an inspection of the fluid levels and brakes as well as new consumables like engine oil, oil filter and a much needed air filter (the roads have been very dusty lately). In addition to the regular service items, the following was completed.

  • Rear Vision Mirror was loose and needed to be more securely attached (somehow).
  • Rear brake pads were starting to get low and decided to replace them a little early. They probably had another 3,000 kms left on them. The garage performed a safety check on the brakes using their equipment. 
  • Check for coolant leaks. None found.
  • And my favourite, check for oil leaks and oil level of the transfer case. No signs of oil leaks and the oil level was just fine.
We supplied spare oil filter, air filter and rear pads that we purchased the previous month in Belgium and the garage used these. Turns out however, the garage probably had the parts (or could get them quickly from Thailand). We also found out that there is indeed a service center in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia owned by the same group. Good to know.


Wednesday, April 16, 2014. 186,775 kms
Luang Prabang, Laos

This was our second unplanned service. A few days earlier Sterlin had developed a terrible vibration at low speed. The vibration was so bad, Sterlin was not drivable. A very close inspection of the Universal Joints on the front prop shaft revealed a potential issue. It was really hard to see, but something didn't quite look right. And if it was the Universal Joints, then all the advice is not to drive the car until this is repaired. Stephen tried to remove the prop shaft to have a closer look, but that proved to be difficult as the bolts would not budge. Finally Sterlin was towed to a local mechanic where the prop shaft was removed and the Universal Joints were inspected, greased and the prop shaft returned to service. The whole process including the tow took less than 2 hours. And although Sterlin seemed to be running fine after this work, the concern was that there was still some issue that the new grease was hiding.

New Universal Joints were on order from Australia and at least we would have these should the problem return.



Monday, May 5, 2014. 190,850 kms
Xī'ān, China

This was our third unplanned service. The replacement Universal Joints had finally arrived after a small journey around South east Asia and China. Stephen consulted with other members of the China convoy on the pros and cons of either a) fitting the replacement parts or b) waiting to see if the old part would fail, and if they did, make the repair then. In the end the pros of option a) won the day, so Stephen headed straight to the Land Rover garage to get the replacement parts fitted.

After 5 hours the mechanics still had not managed to install the new parts so Sterlin stayed overnight in the garage. The following morning he was all fixed up and back in good form. After a good look at the Universal Joints removed from Sterlin, it was easy to see significant wear on one of the four bearing ports. The decision to make the repair early was clearly the right one.

The decision to replace the parts pro-actively was made for the following reasons:-

  • A field repair would certainly be more difficult to complete than a repair carried out in a garage by mechanics.
  • Although we believed we had ordered the right replacements parts (based on Land Rover part numbers), it is only certain that they are right ones once they have been fitted. It would be quite possible and very terrible to carry spare parts thinking that they are the right ones only to find out later that they were not quite right once things go to custard.
  • A window existed where we could get the repair completed without impacting our travel schedule. If we needed to make the repair after a failure, it might happen at an inconvenient time and place that might also impact our travel schedule.



Monday, May 19, 2014. 193,318 kms
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

This was our forth unplanned service. While driving through China the onboard diagnostics told us that we had a potential misfire issue on clyinder 7. Well that was 1,600 kms ago and the issue has not been reported by the car's electronics since. We suspecte the issue was with the spark plugs and maybe exotic South East Asian fuel. The hope was the Land Rover service center would be able to probe deeper into the car's electronics to find out what was really happening. And while Sterlin was in the garage, we thought it best to have a full inspection as well given we are about to go into the Mongolian back country.

There was some buildup on the spark plugs, but nothing too bad. Not good either. The decision was made to fit new plugs. The inspection revealed two other issues. The passengers side exhaust manifold connection to the rest of the exhaust system had a faulty nut. Very similar to the problem on the drivers side. Just a few minutes to find a replacement nut and fit it. The second issue could have been very serious had it not been spotted and corrected. The engine drain plug had oil leaking from it. Turned out the plug was loose. If it had come undone while driving, all of the engine oil would have drained in seconds and Sterlin would be in serious trouble. This was fixed in less than a minute.

Overall very happy that we had this unplanned service.



Friday, June 20, 2014. 198,549 kms
Almaty, Kazakhstan

This was our third planned service. We had read good things on the Internet about the Land Rover garages in Kazakhstan, and we weren't disappointed. The Land Rover garage can also be found on Google maps as Caspian Motors.  The location is Suyunbay Ave 15, Almaty (or  N43.273263° and E76.950101°).

The service was typical, new oil and oil filter and replace the air filter. They also did a check of the suspension, brakes, lights and other fluid levels. We supplied the oil filter and air filter and the garage supplied the oil. Again, they did not have the parts. No issues found.


Wednesday, September 24, 2014. 209,558 kms
Gent, Belgium

This was our forth and final planned service. We had the service completed at the Land rover garage located in Gent. The service and repairs only took 2 hours!

The service was typical, new oil and oil filter and replace the air filter. They also did a quick safety check of the suspension, brakes, lights and other fluid levels. There was one little issue with a coolant leak from the throttle body de-icing unit that was remedied by disconnecting the coolant hoses and by-passing the leaking gasket. A small oil has also developed, but being a Land Rover that is to be expected. And the best news, no issues found.


Next planned service at 222,000kms or 138,000 miles.


Problems with Sterlin

This is a blog post about the things that have not quite gone right with our Sterlin. We have completed 55,000 kms (35,000 miles) over some pretty unforgiving terrain. We have had only one major failure but did have lots of little minor issues. Here are all the messy details below.


Dead Engine Battery
September 11. Adelaide, South Australia

Sterlin broke down in one of the busiest streets of Adelaide. We had just driven from Mt Gambier and parked in the center of town to pick up an ATM car from our bank. When it was time to go, Sterlin would not start. Clearly an electrical problem. Lifted the bonnet and my multimeter quickly told me that the issue was with the engine battery. To get us going again, I swapped the engine battery with the auxiliary battery, which took about 5 minutes.

Being in a major city, it did not take long to find a replacement battery. In fact we had a new battery in less than 2 hours which was later fitted in the basement of the Hilton Hotel.

The original battery was less than a year old, and really it should not have failed. Maybe the three month journey from Los Angeles did not help.


Fridge/Freezer Draining Auxiliary Battery
September 25th. El Questro, Northern Territory, Australia

Our ARB fridge/freezer was not holding the 4 degree C target temperature. The problem seemed to be with the auxiliary battery, which was getting depleted during the night. Maybe there was a problem with the split charger and the charging of the auxiliary battery.

After watching the fridge and auxiliary battery for several weeks, I could find nothing actually wrong. And now that we are in a cooler climate, it seems that the system is working well again. So, I am going to assume that the very high temperatures in the north of Australia were just too much for the overall system and everything will be fine in cooler climates. It has now been two months and all is well.


Transfer Case Oil Leak
October 6th, 2013. Gnaraloo, Western Australia

A small oil leak from the transfer case appeared. Very hard to actually determine where the leak comes from, probably one of the seals. The transfer case had a leak a few years ago, and the seals were replaced at that time, so this was a little unexpected. It is however a very minor leak.

Thursday, October 10, 2013 Update: While in Perth we had a mechanic take a better look at the leak. The verdict was that it was too small to worry about. And as a general rule, Land Rover's leak oil. So, just going to have to watch this one.

Wednesday, January 15, 2013 Update: While we were having the rear brakes fixed, we got the mechanic to check the transfer case levels. All fine.

Friday, March 28, 2014 Update: While in Laos we had a Land Rover mechanic check the fluid levels in the transfer case again. With another 15,000 kms since the problem was first noticed, the area is clear of oil with no signs of a leak and the oil level is just fine. Never heard of a leak fixing itself, but not complaining. The leading theory now is that the breather at the top of the transfer case got blocked by all of the Australian dust and this caused a build-up of pressure in the transfer case. Just a theory.


Bad Smell from the front air vents and leaves in the blower.
November 19th, 2013. Seremban, Malaysia

Every time we started the ventilation fan, we got a nasty smell from the right side front vent. A quick inspection revealed some nasty stuff growing in there. And some on the left side as well. Caroline and I spent an hour pulling the vents apart and giving them a good old clean. At the same time we cleaned out the ventilation blower to remove some leaves that had managed to get in there and were making all sorts of noise.



Something nasty in the vents.

Leaves in the blower.

Rear Passenger Side Running Light Blown.
November 19th, 2013. Seremban, Malaysia

Ok, not a big deal. Changed the blown bulb from the stock of spare parts. And I guess this why we carry spare parts.


Squeaky Brakes
January 15th, 2014. Chiang Mai, Thailand

After a week of enduring a squeaky right rear brake over the hills of Northern Thailand, we took Sterlin into a garage to have this checked out. The brakes are fine, but the rotor was a little worst for wear. So after a little grinding, all was good again. The garage also took a look at the transfer case oil leak, and not problems there. So knock on wood, Sterlin is doing ok.


More Battery Related Issues
January 22nd, 2014. Chiang Mai, Thailand

Sterlin failed to start just after we finished filling up with gas in the morning. Everything went dead, all the lights on the dashboard went out along with other car electrics like the clock/radio. After waiting a few minutes, everything reset and Sterlin started fine. Well, this is a bit concerning.

January 27, 2014 Update: We were 20 kms outside Nong Khai at a Buddist Temple when Sterlin failed to start again, and just like before did self-reset and returned to normal. But this time after two re-start attempts. Once Sterlin was running, we did not stop until we made it to Nong Khai where we had already planned to stop for the night. Based on more internet research, the leading theory now is battery leads. So, I disconnected the two leads and re-connecte them, this time nice and tight. The orginal Land Rover battery leads are not very good, even our mechanic Philippe had trouble. So here's hoping that this is the problem.

March 28, 2014 Update. It has been 2 months and no further problems. I am chalking this up to a loose battery terminal lead.


Secondary Air Injection Pump maybe blocked
February 4th, 2014, Nang Rong, Thailand

For a few days we have noticed a strange noise coming from the glove box just after we start the engine and which disappears after a minute or so. After popping the hood, the sound was clearly coming from the large black thing with pipes coming out of it. So I just needed to find out what the large black thing with pipes coming out of it was. Consulting my handy dandy workshop manual soon revealed that it was the Secondary Air Injection Pump, and it is probably blocked. Fortunately the Secondary Air Injection system serves no useful purpose other than to help the catalyic converter to lower emissions during the first 60-90 seconds after a cold engine start. Hardly useful here in South East Asia where fuel emissions are part of the fabric of life. So, will need to take a quick look at the pump filter when I get a moment. Land Rovers do like attention.


Fridge/Freezer Stopped Working
April 1st, 2014, Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia

Problems with the fridge/freezer again. Opened the back door of Sterlin after hiking around the ruins to find our fridge/freezer not running. The multimeter is handy and it took less than 2 minutes to isolate the electrical fault to the fuse in the power supply cable. Earlier in the day I managed to jam the power supply cable for the fridge in the mechanical slide and must have damaged the cable. The cable did not look damaged but the fuse did its thing so there is probably some internal short in the cable. The unfortunate thing is that ARB uses some weird fuse in their 12v adaptor, and I did not have a spare. But I did have a spare 12v socket adaptor, so later that night I replaced the ARB supplied adaptor with a Blue Sea adaptor and was up and running again albeit with a slightly shorter fridge cable now.


Rear Door Would Not Open
March 7, 2014. Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Arrived at the hotel after a long a dusty drive from Kompong Thom. But unable to open the rear door, which is a major problem. The shelving system is designed to keep the luggage safe and secure unless the rear door is open. It is not even possible to acces the luggage from inside the vechicle. So a little panic set in.

After calming down I got out the WD40 and started spraying madly. We had spent the last 180kms and 6 hours on dusty dirt roads and I was convinced the dust had caused the door mechanism to fail. The WD40 did not help, so I started the process of dismantling the shelving system. Not that this would actually help, as the shelving system is design is such a way that it can't be dismantled from the inside. But had to try something. And it was getting late and dark and we needed our luggage for the night. Worst case I could saw through the shelving system. About 20 mins into the dismantling process I tried the rear door again, and unbelievable it just opened. I guess it took the WD40 a little time to work its magic.

With the luggage out I was a little afraid to close and lock the rear door. Took the rear access panel off and gave the whole area a good old spray. It was extremely dusty.

Sunday, April 13th, 2014 Update: Although we have not had any more problems with the rear door, we now WD40 the lock and have installed some foam to prevent further problems. The foam is at a proof-of-concept stage, if it helps will replace with a more permanent solution.

New black rubber strips and
proof-of-concept anti-dust foam.

Throaty Exhaust Sound
April 13, 2014. Luang Prabang, Laos

In the last week we have noticed a throaty sound coming from the drivers side engine bay when the engine is under load (that is, going up the steep northern Laos hills). The noise is not noticeable when Sterlin is at idle. A quick look under the car revealed that one of the stud/nuts joining the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter and the rest of the exhaust system was missing. The experts on the land rover forum suggest that most likely the stud has sheared off, so this is not a straight forward job to repair. And I could to more damage than harm trying to fix it. So, for the moment we are going to live with the noise.

The missing stud/nut. I think that this
is the problem.

Wednesday, April 30th, 2014 Update: I finally crawled under the car to see if the stud was missing or snapped off. Good news it was just missing and quickly replaced it with a bolt from the spare parts collection. I also found the two remaining nuts were loose, which would clearly cause the throaty sound and even venting hot exhaust into the engine bay, which is not a good idea at all. After tightening the nuts, the noise went away. Surprise surprise. I will add a bolt to the vacant hole another day.

Friday, May 9th, 2014 Update. Stephen finally broke out the bag of spare nuts and bolts and found one that would fit where the stud was missing.

Monday, May 19th, 2014 Update. During the service inspection in Ulaanbaatar, the mechanic found a damaged nut in the same place again on the exhaust manifold connection, but this time on the passengers side. He quickly found a replacement nut and had it installed.


Front Prop Shaft Vibration.
Sunday, April 13th, 2014.Luang Prabang, Laos

A noticeable vibration through the chassis and steering wheel indicated we had an issue on our hands. The next few days were spent working out what was wrong and trying to get it fixed. Turned out to be the Universal Joints forming the Hookes or Double Cardan joint on the rear of the front propellor shaft. The timing of this failure was incredibly bad as we were due to cross into China in just 4 days. The timing was further compounded by the fact that Laos and most of South East Asia were on holiday from April 14th through 16th. The blow by blow description of events can be found in the Luang Prabang blog post.

The failure was ultimately repaired by creasing the joints. A simple repair that we hope will hold until replacement parts can arrive.

Monday, May 5th, 2014 Update: The parts from Australia turned up this morning. They went on a bit of a tour of South East Asia and China to get here, but it was good to finally have them. The temporary repair has lasted 3,500 kms and seems to be holding. After consulting with others on the convoy, we all felt it was a good idea to replace the suspect UJs with the new parts, so I went directly to a Land Rover mechanic to get them replaced. After five hours working on the car, they still had not got the replacement parts fitted. They finished the job the following day.
When in Ulaanbaatar, got the mechanic there to check and grease the joints. Everything seems fine.

The broken bit. The Hookes Joint.


Rear Passenger Side Brake Light Blown and Rear Driver Side Running Light Blown.
April 23rd, 2014. Tiger Leaping Gorge, China

Ok, not a big deal. Changed the blown bulbs from the stock of spare parts. 


P0307 Error Code from Onboard Diagnostics
May 10th, 2014. On the way to Hunyuan, China

The onboard diagnostic tool we had reported a P0307 error, which is a mis-fire on cylinder 7. I had no idea that Sterlin had a misfire detection system.

While in Ulaanbaatar we had a local garage inspect and then replace the spark plugs. The old plugs looked in good enough shape, but better to replace them. The error code was thrown 1,600 kms ago and never returned, so maybe also ust a glitch. Then on June 19th on the way to Almaty the on broad diagnostics tool reported a misfire on cylinder 1 this time. Now we are thinking it might be mixed octane fuel. Will see if the issue continues.


The old spark plugs


Drivers Side Electric Seat Blown.
June 22nd, 2014. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan



Tried to make the seat lean back when there was something behind it and popped the fuse. Unfortunately the fuse is 40amps, and we do not have a spare. Did blow a 30amps trying to see if that would work, it obviously didn't. Not sure if any damage was caused or if I just need a correctly rated fuse. Looking for a 40 amp fuse now to check.

Thursday, January 22nd, 2014 Update. Finally was able to purchase a 40amp fuse. Popped it in and the seat worked fine.


Leaking Coolant.
August 13th, 2014. Hamburg, Germany


The pre-start morning inspection revealed a noticeable drop in the coolant levels. It did not take long to fine the source of the leak as there was coolant dripping off the manifold cover. The leak was coming front the de-icing unit gasket located under the throttle body. The coolant level was topped up and this repair with have to wait.

Wednesday, September 24th, 2014 Update. Land Rover garage in Gent disconnected the coolant hoses from the leaky deicer and by-passed the unit. Problem solved for now.


A New Oil Leak.
September 24th, 2014. Eeklo, Belgium


The day before taking Sterlin in for a routine service, we noticed a new yet small oil leak on the passengers side of the gearbox. The following day the Land Rover mechanic dismissed the leak as too minor to worry about. I guess we will just keep an eye on this for a while..


Post Trip Review.
February 10th, 2015. San Francisco, USA


Finally crawled under Sterlin to complete a post-trip inspection. The gearbox oil leak detected in Belgium is still present, but it is minor and has not got any worse. Unfortunately the Transfer Case oil leak has returned and seems to be more problematic. Although it is not dripping to the ground. There is also a new leak from the brake fluid reservoir, but is very minor. All these three leaks sound like typical leaky land rover issues and nothing to worry about.

Otherwise Sterlin seems to be in fine mechanical shape. The rear two tires were very beaten up and they were replaced with the front tires which were in fine shape. The front tires were replaced with new tires. The rear tires probably had 45,000 miles on them anyway. During the trip we only had two issues with punctured tires and both were fixed with a plug kit.

All in all, Sterlin performed magnificantly. We are so proud of him.






Mapping Technology

This post provides a brief overview of the mapping technology in use on the trip.

We have two Garmin GPS units. For the car we have a 5 inch Garmin nüvi 52LM that is useful for driving directions. For walking around we have the Garmin Oregon 450 handheld. We started off the trip with just the handheld expecting it to be able to be used for driving directions.  We were completely wrong, the handheld is useless for driving directions.  So while in Malaysia we purchased the nüvi.

The most important thing about these GPS devices is the maps that are loaded onto the devices.  Or put another way, we have found for the driving directions to be useful, it is essential to have good quality map data. And on the 52LM it is possible to side-load one custom map onto an SD card.

Our mapping software is Basecamp also by Garmin and runs on a Mac. Of course Google Earth is also used, but it really needs a network connection to be most useful.  In Basecamp it is possible to download free maps from the internet and use them with Basecamp and view them off-line which helps with planning. However, some computer gymnastics is required to get these free maps onto Basecamp.  White Acron provides a pretty good summary.

It is pretty easy to get maps onto the Garmin. The major steps are:-


1. Download your desired map data from garmin.openstreetmap.nl.  For the Garmin, the version to download is osm_generic_gmapsupp.zip or the file with the description "Compressed file that contains a single image that can be placed directly onto the SD-card of the GPS."

2. After decompressing the zip file, load the mapsupp.img file into the "Map" directory of our Garmin micro-SD card. To keep things straight, we rename the file to something more understandable.

To get the map onto Basecamp, a slightly different and more comlicated process is used. The major steps are:-

1. Download your desired map data from garmin.openstreetmap.nl.  In this case, and as we are using a Mac, the version to download is osm_generic_macosx.zip or the file with the description "Map installer for BaseCamp/RoadTrip on the Mac OSX platform".

2. Load the map into Basecamp using Garmin Map Manager.  If you do not have the Garmin Map Manager application, then download it for free from the Mac App Store.

3. You will probably want to change the name of the map and the Family ID to something useful and to avoid conflicts with other maps you download which will have the same name and ID.  The map name can be changed with JaVaWa GMTK which is available for free at www.javawa.nl/gmtk_en.html.  The map name and Family ID can be changed from the "Extra" menu icon and the "Change map name and ID" menu option.

The free map is now available in Basecamp.  The Open Street Map project provides routable maps which can be used for route planning and of course can be downloaded to our GPS for both driving and walking.  There are other sources of maps on the internet.

4. This map can be transferred to our Garmin device using Garmin Map Install. But it usually takes a while, so the first procedure is easier to follow. In addition, the Address Search will not work correctly.

We also have MotionX on our iPhones and iPads.  Great app, but does require a network connection to load maps and unload tracks.

New Tires

Sterlin is fitted with Grabber AT2 tires from General Tire.  Basically a stock tire that is a little wider than normal and with a more aggressive grip for both on and off road driving.
The Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide (VDEG) by Tom Sheppard recommends the following:-

  • Tubed Tires. Our tires are in fact tubeless. Apparently tubeless tires save weight, cost and puncture less dramatically. But they require specialist equipment to fit and large amounts of high pressure air to fill.
  • One spare. To quote our venerable VDEG, "A single spare wheel and tyre is perfectly adequate for expeditions in even the most distant region; quite simply, the weight, bulk of one spare wheel is quite enough of a handicap when you are pushed for payload".
  • Radial Ply Tires.  Our tires are radial ply.  See below for more details of the tire constructions.  Radial Ply offer lower rolling resistance gaining detectably better fuel consumption as well as permitting lower inflation pressures without overheating.

The choice of tire is quite important as they are bound to fail at some point on the journey. We will be on tarmac, tracks, mud and desert so a good all-round tire is preferred. Ideally we would have a tire like the Michelin XZL, but the Grabber AT2 is an ok alternative.


In terms of wheels or rims, we have the tires fitted onto factory alloy rims.  All wheels are configured the same in terms of both tires and rims. The rims are secured to the car with McGard wheel locks. Some specs for our tire choice.

  • Brand: General Tire
  • Model: Grabber AT2
  • Size: 255/65R-16
  • Type: Mud and Snow
  • Load/Speed Index: 109T (1,030kgs/2,300lbs, 190kph/118mph)
  • Load Range: Standard Load
  • Sidewall: Outline White Lettering
  • Overall Tire/Wheel Diameter: 29.1 ins.
  • Tire Weight: 37.0 lbs
  • Max Inflation Pressure: 44 psi
  • Overall Section Width (measuring rim): 10.2 (7.5) ins.
  • Approved Rim Widths: 7.0 - 9.0 ins.
  • Max Load: 2271 lbs
  • Tread Depth (32nds): 16
  • Revs per Mile: 714
  • RIM Protect: yes


Grabber at2 en
Info-graphic of the tires we are using.

Sand Tracks

Sterlin has aluminum sand tracks or sand ladders mounted on the roof rack. These are not really carried to free us from sand or soft ground, but rather are there in case we have to create a bridge across rutted or uneven road surfaces. We purchased our sand tracks from www.OKoffroad.com

Jerry Cans

We added 4 Jerry cans for fuel and to extend the range of the thirsty discovery engine. Land Rover Discoveries have very poor fuel economy achieving around 15 mpg or 15.7 l/100kms.  So a full fuel tank provides a range of around 375 miles or 600 kms.  The four Jerry Cans will extend the range to a total of 675 miles or 1,100 kms.  Still not great, but better.

We had read in Lonely Planet that there are fuel availability issues in Mongolia and Uzbekistan. And maybe they would be useful in Australia. Turns out we never had issues obtaining fuel. We did fill the Jerry cans once, just before we crossed from China into Mongolia as a precaution. And this is when we discovered that the particular Jerry cans we purchased had a major flaw. They leak. The fancy pouring spout has to be installed facing out, otherwise the can will leak badly. But with the spout facing out, the cans can't be secured in the carriers. We quickly transferred the fuel back into the main fuel tank and never used them again for car fuel. We did carry a small amount fuel for our stove in one of the cans.


Also, we were quite worried about the extra load on the roof rack. Not because of roll over, but not sure if the rain gutter would be strong enough. So again, lucky we never had to use them. The alternative to Jerry cans was to fit a second fuel tank. But that would have been a considerable undertaking, and glad we did not bother with that.


The current thought is to sell or give away the cans in Belgium and not return to America with them.


Jerry Cans on Roof Rack

Driving Lamps

Sterlin has been fitted with two extra driving lamps mounted on the front brush bar. The thought is these lamps will mainly be used to light our camping area.  But, in the unlikely event we drive at night, they might came in handy.

My brother, Hamish, helped with the installation, which took the most of an afternoon. Bolting on the lights was the easy part, trying to thread the control wiring through the engine bay wall into the passenger area was the hard bit.  But we got it eventually.

The lights are Hella 500 12v/55W and are connected to the auxiliary battery and can be switched on and off from the drivers seat.

Hella 500 Driving Lamps

Related Posts

Water Tank, Filter and Pump

Sterlin is fitted with a 50 liter (13 gallon) clean water tank which is connected to an electric pump which pumps the water through a water purification or filter system. 

The plan is for the water tank will always hold clean water. To achieve this, we will filter all water before it goes into the tank by using the pump and filter system. And as an added precaution, we will also filter the water when we pump it from the water tank for use.

Components

The first major component is a water tank from Front Runner which  is made from food grade polyethylene and is BPA free. Although the tank construction is very solid, unfortunately the metal outlet valve leaked and we replaced it with a new fitting. The other problem we had to address was a way to let air into the tank to replace the water which is pumped out. Unless we did this, the pump would create so much suction that the tank would collapse in on itself.  One way to address this is to merely open the filling cap when in use. But we need to remember to open and close the cap, which seems unlikely. So instead, we fitted an air intake valve into the cap.


The second major component is a water pump.  We selected the Revolution water pump from Shurflo  which is capable of producing 3 gallons or 12 liters per minute at a draw of 7.5 Amps from the 12volt system. More useful is that the pump will automatically cycle on and off based on demand and will even run dry without damage. The water pump is on its own 12volt circuit with an isolation circuit so it can be turned off at night and while driving. When turned off we also relief the built up water pressure in the hoses to prevent leaks.




The last major component in our clean water system is the filter. We selected the Doulton RIF-10 which is a 0.2 micron ceramic filter capable of filtering out pathogenic bacteria such as E.coli, salmonella etc. It will also reduces dirt, chlorine taste and odor, mold, algae and removes 100% Cryptosporidium and Giardia cysts. Typically there is also a sediment filter before the activated carbon and ceramic filters to protect them. But to save space, we did not install the sediment filter. Halfway through the trip we switched the order of the two filters, using the ceramic filter to protect the activated carbon as it is easiervto clean the ceramic filter. The recommended installation order is the other way around.



The three major components are connected with various hoses, piping, valves and fittings.  The water pump and water filter system are mounted on a wooden panel with a simple detachable mount which enables them to be electrically and hydraulically disconnected and removed from the vehicle for cleaning or operation outside the vehicle.

Operation

The operation of the system is very simple.  To start the flow of clean water the outlet valve is opened, the pump detects a drop in discharge pressure and automatically starts and the water flows. To stop the flow the outlet valve is closed, the pump detects a rise in discharge pressure and automatically shuts off after a few seconds. The main trick is to avoid accidentally opening the discharge valve when the pump is enabled, which results in water going everywhere.

Filling the water tank is also a simple system. The inlet side of the water pump can be connected either to the water tank or a external source for filling. The water tank and the external source connections both have an isolation valve, which is typically closed. We connect a short piece of hose pipe to the external connection point, open the valve during the filling process. The short piece of hose pipe is long enough that we can drive our car into a river and directly fill from the river. More typically the water source will be from a hotel and we have a portable and collapsable water bag so to can carry the water from the hotel to our car.  We will have to repeat this process a number of time to fill up an empty water tank.


We will not maintain a log of water usage as recommended, as the water filter we selected is rated for 50,000 liters which far exceeds our possible usage.  We will however inspect the filters every month and clean them as necessary and drain the water tank and clean it.


Fire Extinguishers

Sterlin carries two fire extinguishers.  The first line of defense is from a H3R clean agent fire extinguisher with 2.5lb of agent.  The unit is mounted on the storage box behind the passengers seat.  The second fire extinguisher is stored under the passenger's side seat.

Stainless Steel Rear Cargo Door

We replaced Sterlin's original rear cargo panel with an upgraded stainless steel panel and added a fold down work table. The replacement panel is from Columbia Overland and is purpose built for the Land Rover Discovery II.  The fold down table is made by Outback Adventures, IncIt took many months of thinking and considering many options before we selected this simple arrangement. The first idea was to construct the fold down table ourselves, but the product from Outback Adventurers was far superior to anything we could build. So glad we did build our own.

The fold down table is very sturdy and provides ample room to prepare food or even act as a shelf for the stove.  There is a nice bamboo slide-out section which allows the table to be extended. Although this table was designed for a JK Jeep, it works perfectly fine on Sterlin.




Dual Battery and 12v Distribution

Sterlin now has two batteries, one battery for the engine and a new one for auxiliaries. The auxiliary battery is installed in the engine bay next to the main battery. The two batteries are electrically connected via a charging solenoid. The auxiliary battery power is used for: the fridge, clean water pump, spot lights  at the front of the car, outlets installed on roof rack for extra lighting and various other things, like chargers.

Should you want to know more, this post provides a lengthy description of the installation.



First Aid, Health and Emergency Locator Devices

Sterlin is equipped with a fairly comprehensive first aid kit. We selected the Adventure Medical Mountain Comprehensive. This kit is located behind the passengers seat with a simple and easy to release strap.

Prior to the trip we obtained vacations for Hepatitis A, Typhoid as well as other routine vacations are measles/mumps/rubella (MMR), diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT) and poliovirus.  We also hold comprehensive medical evacuation insurance supplied by FrontierMEDEX. We have copies of our vaccination records and emergency contact numbers with us.
The satellite phone is pre-programmed with the various emergency numbers.

We carry two emergency satellite distress signaling devices which use different technologies and different emergency response coordinator service providers.
The first one is the Spot satellite message device which is able to transmit GPS coordinates to an emergency response center. The spot device is very small and we can carry with us when we are away from Sterlin, for instance on a hike. The second is a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) which signals NOAA's response center. In both cases two very good friends are designated as our emergency contacts.

Spare Parts and Tools

Sterlin will be stocked with a minimum of spare parts and tools. Clearly we are planning to go to some far off places and it is unlikely that we will find all the spare parts or even services that we will need to complete a repair. So of course it makes sense to carry some spare parts and tools. The difficult part is trying to predict which parts might fail and thus what makes sense to have handy versus what is better left behind. Getting the answer to this question right will mean the difference between a speedy repair versus sitting around until replacement parts can be flown in from the US or the UK.  

Our focus and philosophy is to carry spare parts that are known to fail, that fail suddenly and are small enough to carry so as to not take up too much valuable cargo space. The other important consideration is our lack of mechanical skills, so we need to be realistic on what we can repair ourselves.  

The thinking is that we carry spare parts for which we have sufficient mechanical skills and the right tools to complete the repair ourselves and complete the repair roadside if absolutely needed. Of course, it would be much better to get to a local garage and employ the services of a local mechanic to complete the repair under our watchful eye. Sterlin has been prepared for the trip and is in very sound mechanical shape, but unfortunately it is of an age at which bits and pieces are starting to fail. Therefore we focus as much on a regular vehicle inspection as we do on carrying spare parts and tools. Refer to the related article on Vehicle Inspection and Maintenance for more details.


Thank-you to the post by R_Lefebvre and others in Expedition Portal for their suggestions on what spare parts to carry. The suggestions in this post focus on what we call critical parts, that is, parts that should they fail, Sterlin as a whole will fail. There are of course some parts that are critical, but are not practical to carry, like a spare drive/prop shaft. Here is what we settled on for spare parts and tools:-


Critical Spare Parts List - Sensors

  • Oxygen Sensors.  These small sensors are known to fail with age and are recommended to be replaced after 60,000 miles. We will carry a total of two spare sensors, 1 upstream and 1 downstream of the catalytic converter. Sterlin has 4 oxygen sensors: 2 associated with the left bank of cylinders and 2 with the right bank. The Bosch part numbers are 15175 and 15630 for upstream and downstream respectively.
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). The Bosch part number is W0133-1833517. But the spare part we carry is a Standard Motor Products PC580 equivalent as it is cheaper.

Non-critical Spare Parts List - Sensors

  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor insert.  According to the Land Rover RAVE manual, failure of the MAF sensor results in the ECU using a software backup strategy based on tables. So technically Sterlin can operate with degraded performance due to a failed Mass Flow Sensor. To save space we will carry only the insert and not the housing. The Land Rover part number is ERR7171 and the Bosch part number is 0280217532. We carry an equivalent as it is cheaper.
  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).  According to the Land Rover RAVE manual, failure of the Throttle Position sensor results in the ECU using a value derived from the engine load and speed. So like the MAF sensor, technically Sterlin can operate with degraded performance with a with a failed Throttle Position Sensor. The Land Rover part number is ERR7322 and the Bosch part number is 0280122016.  We carry an equivalent as it is cheaper.

In general a sensor failure will be reported by the Electronic Control Unit or ECU making it very easy to detect using a code reader. We decided not to proactively replace any of the above 7 sensors, as it not too difficult to replace them; should they fail the repair could be completed roadside if absolutely needed.  And new sensors can fail as well, so even if we proactively replaced the sensors, we would still want to carry spares. Any sensor we do not need can be sold on ebay after the trip. The total cost of the 5 sensors is USD$240.  All sensors are very small and easy to carry.


Critical Spare Parts List - Electrical

  • Brake Switch. The Land Rover Discovery II has an interlock on the gear selection lever preventing it being moved from P (Park) unless the brake pedal is pressed. The replacement is easier to carry than by-passing the interlock solenoid which is the other option. The Land Rover part number is XKB100170.  
  • Fuel Pump Relay. The Land Rover part number is YWB101300G.  We carry an equivalent from Duralast.
  • Fuses. A collection of blade fuses at various amp ratings. The Land Rover Discovery has 77 fuses, so probably a good idea to carry a few spares.
  • Ignition Key correctly cut and keyed. The Land Rover Discovery includes a factory installed immobilizer. Failure of the electronics inside the drivers key could mean the immobilizer remains active. The best counter measure for failure or loss of the ignition key is having a spare key with the remote correctly keyed for the ECU.

Critical Spare Parts List - Rubber

  • 1 Full Spare Wheel (tire and Rim). Wheels are very prone to failure on under developed roads and so we will carry a full spare which is mounted on the rear cargo door in the usual place. Being stored on the outside of the car the spare will be locked with a lug nut lock. We only carry one spare and hope this will be sufficient. 
  • Tire Repair Kit. We carry the ARB Speedy Seal Tire Puncture Repair Kit which includes a quality pencil type tire gauge with dual pressure range and dual chuck, insertion and reamer tools, lubricant, additional valve accessories and 30 self vulcanizing repair cords for complete air sealing. This allows for roadside repairs when nails or other sharp objects puncture the tire.
  • Serpentine or Auxiliary Belt. This is the belt that drives the alternator, a/c compressor, power steering pump and viscous fan pulley. The serpentine belt has been recently replaced, but as it is rubber and can fail we decided on carrying a spare. The Land Rover part number is ERR6898.

We have been quite conservative when it comes to spare parts for the rubber items. Clearly tires can fail from stones, nails and other bits and pieces found on roads. And although we have recently replaced the Serpentine Belt and Radiator Hoses, rubber can fail. The decision not to carry replacement radiator hoses was difficult, but they take up a lot of room. The hope is that we patch the vehicle with either hose bandage or locally acquired temporary hosing. The timing chain on a Land Rover Discovery uses a metal chain and not a rubber belt, so fingers crossed this will not fail. And anyway, replacing a timing chain is a multi-day procedure requiring specialized tools and way beyond what we could do.


Critical Spare Parts List - Mechanical

  • Water or Coolant Pump. Probably a bit of an overkill, but engine cooling is important. The Land Rover Part number is STC4378A.  We carry an equivalent.

Non-critical Spare Parts List - Mechanical

  • Coolant Thermostat.  The current thermostat has recently been replaced as a proactive measure and Sterlin will operate with a stuck thermostat. Even so, we carry a replacement spare. The Land Rover Part number is PEM100990.

The Water or Coolant Pump or Thermostat could in theory be replaced roadside using the tools that we are carrying.  Obviously we hope that this will never need doing as it is quite a difficult procedure to be completed roadside. There is no need to carry an oil pump or power steering pump as the repair is beyond our skills.  None of the pumps have been replaced proactively as the procedure is too difficult and expensive to justify it.

Consumables

  • 2x Oil filters.  Land Rover part number is ERR3340G.
  • 2x Air Intake filters.  Land Rover part number is ESR4238.

The intention and hope is that Land Rover Service centers will carry the right consumables and fluids.  Sterlin will be services at the end of Leg 2 (Australia Leg) and either at the end of Leg 3 (South East Asia) or the start of Leg 4 (Russia) and one last time in the middle of Leg 4, somewhere around Moscow.
We have recently replaced the engine gaskets and transmission case seals, so hopefully they will not leak.


Note: Many we talked to along the way were amazed we did not carry fluids like oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid. We completed the 50,000 km journey without needing to top up any fluids except the coolant. And for the coolant, probably only added 200ml. We suspect the coolant level dropped through the overfil hose when on rough roads. Not sure if that is even possible, but it is the only theory that makes sense to us.


Non Critical Spares

  • 2 complete sets of replaceable light bulbs (excluding head lamps). Light bulbs are cheap and easy to obtain when at home and very difficult to obtain when out on expedition.
  • A collection of various small terminal crimps, shrink-wrap tubing and some spare 22 and 14 gauge electrical wire.
  • A collection of various nuts, washers and bolts.
  • A collection of various cable ties.

Tools for Sterlin

  • Bottle Jack and lug nut wrench
  • Flat head screwdrivers; small, medium and large
  • Phillips head screwdrivers; small, median and large
  • Set of metric Allen keys
  • Metric sockets; 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 mm
  • Imperial sockets; 3/8, 1/2, 7/16 and 3/4 inch
  • Socket drivers; one small and one large.
  • Security Torx T-27 for the MAF Sensor insert
  • Metric spanners; 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 mm
  • Imperial spanners; 3/8, 1/2, 7/16 and 3/4 inch
  • Oxygen sensor socket
  • Adjustable spanner
  • Monkey grip
  • Long nose pillars
  • Multimeter with a fresh battery.
  • Ultragauge which is an OBDII cable and ECU Code Reading software

All the tools are of reasonable quality, not the best but also not the cheapest. The tool list was based on the tools recommended in the Land Rover Workshop RAVE manual along with suggestions from various members of LandRoverForums.com.


Other Tools and Consumables

  • Terminal Crimping tool.  A luxury, but I suspect the number one repair will be to the wiring of the auxiliary lighting and power distribution for the fridge and clean water pump.
  • Nylon thread tape for the water tank and filter connections.
  • Electrical tape for general electrical repairs.
  • Duct tape for general repairs.
  • Some x-treme tape from Duluth Trading. 
  • Small can of WD-40 for greasing and lubrication.  Although we suspect WD-40 can be purchased anywhere in the world.
  • Leatherman multi-tool.
  • LED Flashlight.  Here we splashed out a little and got the Streamlight Strion.  Ok, it is expensive, but it is a rather nice flashlight and everyone should have 1 rather nice flashlight.
  • Small hammer.
  • RAVE Manual.

Summary of all Critical Spare Parts


The total cost of all the critical spare parts and consumables is around USD$1,000.  All of the spare parts and the tools are packed away carefully in a Pelican case (model 1550). The advantage of the pelican case is to keep the moisture and dust out. And the Pelican case provides some emotional comfort, as we feel good having all the spare parts and tools in a known location which is also compact and portable enough so they can be removed from Sterlin if we are staying overnight in a hotel (for instance).


Spare Parts not Carried


There is always a temptation to take spare parts for everything that could possibly go wrong.  For instance, it is really hard to start a car when the starter motor is broken. The same could be said for the ECU. Some people even recommend drive shafts, hub assemblies and other very large items. If something fails beyond what we are carrying, then I guess we will be spending a little extra time in a location where we were not planning to spend a little extra time. There are a number of items that almost made the list:-

  • Brake Pads and Rotors.  We should notice unusual wear through regular inspection giving us enough time to find a replacement.
  • Fuel pump. It is possible that fuel will have containments that cause the fuel pump to fail. Actually, the fuel pump could just fail. If we really really had to, we could probably jerry rig a work around until a replacement pump arrives.
  • Power Steering Pump.  Expensive and hard to install.
  • Oil Gear Pump. Expensive and hard to install.
  • Starter Motor. Too big and will likely notice when it is starting to fail. The starter motor was actually a good candidate for a pro-active replacement.
  • Shock Absorbers.  We recently replaced the original 10 year old shock absorbers with a heavy duty application from Biltsen.  Given this recent replacement we will not carry this bulky item.

Detailed inventory of all of Spare Parts, Consumables and Tools including costs can be found below.

Related Posts


All prices in US Dollars.

  • Oxygen Sensors - $60 each
  • Throttle Position Sensor - $20
  • MAF Sensor - $30
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor - $65
  • Brake Switch - $35
  • Fuel Pump Relay - $35
  • Coolant Thermostat - $40
  • Fuses - $10
  • Ignition Key with keyed remote - $20
  • 1 Full Spare Tire - $135 each
  • 1 Full Spare Rim - $75 each
  • Tire Repair Kit - $45.
  • Serpentine or Auxiliaries Belt - $40
  • Oil Filters - $25 each  
  • Air Intake Filters - $20 each
  • Water or Coolant Pump - $100



OBDII Interface and Display



We have installed an Ultra-gauge to provide engine management information from the OBDII diagnostic port located under the steering wheel.  The ultra-gauge is able to connect with Sterlin's on board computer and obtain real-time engine management information and diagnostic fault codes, even while the car's being driven.  



Here are some of the more useful things that we can obtain from the OBDII interface (listed in order of most useful to least useful:-



  • Real-time fuel consumption rate estimates.  The Land Rover Discovery II never included any on board computer display, so simple information like fuel consumption rate can not be displayed.  Fortunately the on board computer actually calculates this.
  • Actual engine coolant temperature.  The Land Rover Discovery temperature gauge does not work very well and basically indicates a normal temperature on the dashboard (needle pointing exactly half way between hot and cold extremes) even if the coolant temperature is above normal.  The OBDII interface provides the actual temperature and the iPhone application is set to sound an alarm when it exceeds custom thresholds.  We have set the thresholds initially at 104°C or 220°F.
  • Read engine fault codes.  We have owned Sterlin for 10 years and the engine check light has never come on.  But if it did, the ultra-gauge would be able to indicate the fault code and cause of the indication.  Presumably this is useful in vehicle diagnostics.  Attached is a file with all the known Land Rover Discovery II engine fault codes.
  • Estimated remaining range in the fuel tank.  In addition to the fuel gauge, another method to estimate when to fuel up.

Related Articles




Fault Code Information


The following fault information was sourced from here.

When an OBD-II fault occurs in Land Rover's Generic Engine Management System (GEMS), the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is illuminated. GEMS Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC ) are stored in the Engine Control Module (ECM ) and may be retrieved by connecting a suitable OBD II Scan Tool or the Land Rover TestBook Electronic Tester to the Data Link Connector (DLC ). DTC's can only be Extracted, Diagnosed and Cleared by the TestBook Diagnostic Unit, a required special tool , or an appropriate after market equivalent.

All information regarding DTC's for this model is contained within the Land Rover TestBook Diagnostic Unit. The manufacturer does not provide any other information on pulling codes, descriptions, diagnosis, clear codes, etc. 

*Codes* are used to identify the 4 Oxygen Sensors. 
A = Bank A of the engine. Cylinder #1 is located on Engine Bank A. 
B = Bank B of the engine. 
U = Upstream of the Catalytic Converter. 
D = Downstream of the Catalytic Converter. 
Example: A D = Oxygen Sensor Engine Bank A, Downstream of Catalytic Converter.


*Codes* are used to identify the 4 Oxygen Sensors.
A = Bank A of the engine. Cylinder #1 is located on Engine Bank A.
B = Bank B of the engine.
U = Upstream of the Catalytic Converter.
D = Downstream of the Catalytic Converter.
Example: A D = Oxygen Sensor Engine Bank A, Downstream of Catalytic Converter.


P0101Mass Air Flow Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0102Mass Air Flow Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0103 Mass Air Flow Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0111 Air Temperature Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0112 Air Temperature Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0113 Air Temperature Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Falling Temp Fault
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0121 Throttle Position Sensor Output Signal Error Fault
P0122Throttle Position Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0123Throttle Position Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0125 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Warm Up Fault
P0130 Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *Codes* A U
P0131 Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *Codes* A U
P0132 Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *Codes* A U
P0133 Oxygen Sensor Slow Response *Codes* A U
P0136 Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *Codes* A D
P0137 Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *Codes* A D
P0138 Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *Codes* A D
P0139 Oxygen Sensor Slow Response *Codes* A D
P0150 Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *Codes* B U
P0151 Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *Codes* B U
P0152 Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *Codes* B U
P0153 Oxygen Sensor Slow Response *Codes* B U
P0156 Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *Codes* B D
P0157 Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *Codes* B D
P0158 Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *Codes* B D
P0159 Oxygen Sensor Slow Response *Codes* B D
P0171 Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Bank A
P0172 Oxygen Sensor System Too Rich Fault Bank A
P0174 Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Bank B
P0175 Oxygen Sensor System Too Rich Fault Bank B
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0201 Injector 1 Circuit Fault
P0202 Injector 2 Circuit Fault
P0203 Injector 3 Circuit Fault
P0204 Injector 4 Circuit Fault
P0205 Injector 5 Circuit Fault
P0206 Injector 6 Circuit Fault
P0207 Injector 7 Circuit Fault
P0208 Injector 8 Circuit Fault
P0300 Misfire On Multiple Cylinder
P0301 Misfire Cylinder 1
P03O2 Misfire Cylinder 2
P03O3 Misfire Cylinder 3
P0304 Misfire Cylinder 4
P0305 Misfire Cylinder 5
P0306 Misfire Cylinder 6
P0307 Misfire Cylinder 7
P0308 Misfire Cylinder 8
P0326 Continuous Knock Fault Bank A
P0327 Background Noise Low Fault Bank A
P0328 Background Noise High Fault Bank A
P0331 Continuous Knock Fault Bank B
P0332 Background Noise Low Fault Bank B
P0333 Background Noise High Fault Bank B
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Out of Range Fault
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Low Fault Bank A
P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Low Fault Bank B
P0441 Evap Purge Valve Incorrect Flow Fault
P0442 Evap System Small Leak Detected Fault
P0443 Evap Purge Valve Open or Short Circuit Fault
P0451Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Low out of Range Fault
P0453 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0461 Fuel Tank Level Measurement Not Valid Fault
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0506 Idle Speed Control Engine Speed Low Fault
P0507 Idle Speed Control Engine Speed High Fault
P0560 Battery Voltage Below Minimum Fault
P0562 Measurement Circuit OK Battery Voltage Low Fault
P0563 Battery Voltage Above Maximum Fault
P0605 ECM Self Test Fault
P1130 Oxygen Sensor Fuel Trim at Limit *Codes* A U
P1131 Oxygen Sensor Engine Lean *Codes* A U
P1132 Oxygen Sensor Engine Rich *Codes* A U
P1137 Oxygen Sensor Engine Lean *Codes* A D
P1138 Oxygen Sensor Engine Rich *Codes* A D
P1150 Oxygen Sensor Fuel Trim at Limit *Codes* B U
P1151 Oxygen Sensor Engine Lean *Codes* B U
P1152 Oxygen Sensor Engine Rich *Codes* B U
P1157 Oxygen Sensor Engine Lean *Codes* B D
P1158 Oxygen Sensor Engine Rich *Codes* B D
P1171 Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Banks A & B
P1172 Oxygen Sensor System Too Rich Fault Banks A & B
P1176 Maximum Positive FMFR Correction Fault
P1177 Maximum Negative FMFR Correction Fault
P1178 Maximum Positive AMFR Correction Fault
P1179 Maximum Negative AMFR Correction Fault
P1185 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Upstream
P1186 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Upstream
P1187 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Upstream
P1188 Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Upstream
P1189 Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Upstream
P1190 Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 2 Low Resistance Upstream
P1191 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P1192 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Downstream
P1193 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P1194 Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Downstream
P1195 Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Downstream
P1196 Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 2 Low Resistance Downstream
P1199 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Fault
P1201 Injector 1 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1202 Injector 2 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1203 Injector 3 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1204 Injector 4 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1205 Injector 5 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1206 Injector 6 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1207 Injector 7 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1208 Injector 8 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A
P1314 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B
P1315 Misfire Persistent Fault
P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
P1317 ABS Rough Road Line Low Fault
P1318 ABS Rough Road Line High Fault
P1361 No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 1
P1362 No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 2
P1363 No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 3
P1364 No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 4
P1371 Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 1
P1372 Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 2
P1373 Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 3
P1374 Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 4
P1440 Evap System Purge Valve Stuck Open Fault
P1441 Evap System Purge Valve Flow 1 Fault
P1442 Evap System Purge Valve Blocked Fault
P1447 Evap System Purge Valve Open or Short Circuit Fault
P1448 Evap System Purge Valve Flow 2 Fault
P1508 Idle Speed Control Open Circuit Fault
P15O9 Idle Speed Control Short Circuit Fault
P1514 Neutral Drive Load Fault
P1516 Neutral Drive Gear Change Fault
P1517 Neutral Drive Cranking Fault
P1607 Malfunction Indicator Lamp Short Circuit Fault
P1608 Malfunction Indicator Lamp Open Circuit Fault
P1620 Reprogramming Code Learn Fault
P1621 Serial Data Link Dead Fault
P1622 Repeated Wrong ECM Security Code Fault
P1623 ECM Security Code Fault
P1701 Transfer Box Line Fault
P1703 Transfer Box Line Open Circuit Fault
P1708 Transfer Box Line Short Circuit Fault
P1775Gearbox Fault
P1776Gearbox Ignition Retard Request Timeout Fault
P1777Gearbox Ignition Retard Request Line Fault